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Sustainable Fashion: The Fine Line Between Sustainability and Greenwashing

Toby Patrick

Sustainability is an increasingly discussed topic, and just about every industry has been challenged to become more sustainable. In fact, data suggests that over 90% of CEOs believe sustainability is now fundamental to the success of their business. 


Whether these increased efforts into sustainability are driven by a genuine concern for the planet or not is up for debate. Activists could argue that this behaviour is merely a way to increase profits. Others may ask if this matters, so long as our planet is being cared for.


Sustainable Fashion

Sustainability In Fashion

The fashion industry has been the most criticised for its  unsustainable practices and for its lack of care for the planet. The practices of fast fashion brands in particular have come under the microscope.


The fast fashion business model focuses on producing a high volume of mass-produced items at the lowest possible price. The ultimate objective is to provide a cheaper alternative to the high-quality, expensive products seen at luxury fashion shows of designer brands. Fast fashion became the norm during the 2000s, but during the 2010s, fast fashion exploded. Fast fashion and e-commerce became a match made in heaven. Businesses saved money on physical stores, products became even cheaper and shoppers were buying more clothes than ever before.


As unethical practices within the industry were gradually exposed, attitudes towards fast fashion brands began to change. In recent years, the profits of stores like Boohoo, Pretty Little Thing and ASOS have been in decline. This turbulent time for what was once a thriving industry can be put down to the changing behaviours of younger shoppers. 


The age group between 18 to 24 have long been fast fashion’s target demographic, but now this age group demands a commitment to sustainability that fast fashion cannot promise. Any use of materials like polyester, which is commonly used to manufacture garments like cargo pants and gym wear, is expected to come from recyclable sources. 


This has presented a valuable opportunity for fashion brands who are prepared to put the planet at the heart of their business opportunities.


Greenwashing in fashion


When it comes to the fashion industry, the line between greenwashing and sustainability is unclear and subjective. A brand may change to packaging made from recycled materials to reduce its carbon footprint but continue to produce low-quality items that contribute to overconsumption.       


Boohoo’s sustainability ambassador

In 2022, Boohoo announced the brand’s new sustainability ambassador, Kourtney Kardashian. While this may appear to be a move towards being more sustainable, most would agree it’s nothing more than greenwashing.


The decision to appoint Kourtney Kardashian as a sustainability ambassador has been criticised by some. Activists would argue that there are far more qualified individuals to push a brand’s efforts towards sustainability and that this decision would appear to be more influenced by marketing than the planet.


Secondly, some argue that there is a strong irony in a brand that produces enormous amounts of clothing appointing a sustainability ambassador. A genuine commitment to sustainability would probably have seen a commitment to reducing the number of garments that are produced.


Zara efficient stores

Zara’s commitment to making its stores more eco-efficient was a good move for the planet. Using renewable energy sources and reducing energy consumption were part of their more sustainable stores in a move that would likely go down well with shoppers.


However,  the parent company of Zara, Inditex, is one of the biggest clothing manufacturers in the world. The reduction in energy used in stores is probably not enough to offset the energy used to produce their 620,000 tonnes of clothing each year.


How to spot greenwashing?

the issues of sustainability and greenwashing are slightly subjective. What some would consider sustainable, others may consider greenwashing. If you are trying to make more sustainable fashion choices, experts have revealed a few ways to spot greenwashing.


Sudden commitment to sustainability

If a brand is concerned with sustainability, then they should be concerned with it from day one. While it is good that sustainability is becoming increasingly important to consumers, it is also a trend that can be exploited for sales; a sudden commitment to sustainability would indicate that this may be the case. 


With that said, it is possible for brands to realise the error of their ways and make a genuine commitment to being more sustainable so it is important to dig deeper into a brand’s procedures. Patagonia is a great example of a brand that has made a genuine commitment to sustainability.


Vague language

Brands that are guilty of greenwashing will likely use vague, subjective language. Words like eco-friendly, natural, and organic are vague and everyone’s definition could differ. On the other hand, if a brand uses numbers such as 100% recycled or net zero, then this is harder to argue with as they are putting a number on their efforts.


Sustainable range or product lines

It’s important to analyse an organisation as a whole when it comes to sustainability. It’s a common greenwashing tactic for brands to release a sustainable range or line. 


An example of this from a well-known brand is H&M’s Conscious Choice range which is promoted as being better for the planet. In reality, a genuine concern for the planet would see this attitude rolled out across their entire range of products. 


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Toby Patrick is a freelance writer and marketing graduate who enjoys covering a range of topics, often sharing his thoughts on the latest climate and sustainability issues.


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